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- 我到衢州的那天，天还没有完全亮透。列车驶入站台时，窗外是一层被夜色压低的灰蓝，远处的楼群像刚刚从水汽里浮出来。我拖着行李走出车站，第一感觉不是古城的庄重，也不是旅行攻略里常见的“慢生活”，而是一阵带着湿意的凉风。那风从城市的街巷里穿出来，混着早点摊升起的油香、湿石板的气味，还有清洁车经过以后留下的淡淡水声。我没有立刻去酒店，也没有急着找景点，先把行李寄放在前台，沿着还不拥挤的街道往孔氏南宗家庙方向走。那一刻我只想找一顿真正属于当地人的早饭，看看一座城市在游客抵达以前，究竟怎样
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