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- 清晨六点半，大同的天已经亮了，街边早餐铺刚掀开门帘，蒸笼白气被风一把扯散。我站在迎宾街口等车，手里捧着一碗热豆浆，起初以为这座城只是山西地图上一处灰扑扑的古迹集合：石窟该是沉默的石头，城墙不过复建后的拍照背景。司机摇下车窗催我上车，冷风灌进衣领，也把这个轻率的判断吹得有些站不住脚。
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