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- 傍晚六点半,我从钟楼附近往回民街方向走,天色还没有完全暗下来,街口的灯牌已经一层层亮起。对一个第一次在西安夜市认真吃晚饭的外国人来说,那种声音和气味几乎像一张看不见的地图:烤羊肉串的油脂落在炭火上,发出轻微的噼啪声;凉皮摊前有人快速搅拌芝麻酱;卖酸梅汤的阿姨把杯子一排排摆好;人流从北院门慢慢涌进来,又在每一个冒着蒸汽的小摊前停顿。
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